The North Coast Western Riders Club

Tips & Articles

If anyone has any great tips for training, showing, great buys, stain removal, etc then email us at ncwrc09@live.com.au

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Contents:

Mane Pulling

Five Horse Training Tips

Removing Hoof Black

5 Tips to Winning Patterns in the Showmanship Class

Western Show Clothing - What You Need to Know

Showing Horses From the Judge's Perspective

Horse Riding Techniques and Tips

Foal Training Tips - Horse Training From Birth

Feeding after foaling

Mane & Tail Basic Facts: The Mane

Your Horse's Mane Is Worth Your Time

Dog Owner's Tips

Mane Pulling

If your horse doesn't fancy you ripping the hair out of his mane or tail, rub some Clove Oil into the area for about 5 minutes to numb the area. Wear gloves though, otherwise your fingers will go numb too!

Five Horse Training Tips

Working with horses can often be difficult and even scary, as horses engage in bad horse behaviors that not only make them annoying but make them unsafe. These behaviors can include biting, kicking, being pushy on the ground, or worse bucking and rearing. The best way to minimize the chance your horse will be pushy like this is to lay a solid foundation that puts you in a leadership position with the horse. Here are five horse training tips to help you achieve this.

1. Have a good lead

A horse that respects you leads well. This means that the horse follows you at a short distance just off your shoulder. Most people lead from the left side of the horse, so he should be just to the right of you with the tip of his nose just at your shoulder. He shouldn't pull on the rope or drag, and he shouldn't blast out ahead of you. If a horse drags on the rope, stop every now and then and ask for a backup. This puts a cost into his bad horse behavior. On the other hand, if he tends to walk faster and pass you, change directions when he does this so that you can put yourself back in front of the horse.

2. Teach your horse to relax

Remember that horses are prey animals, so they're always on the lookout for the next threat. A horse with his head up high is one that is tense and looking for something about to eat him. A horse that is relaxed has his head low and is probably more interested in finding some nice greens to graze on. Teach your horse to relax on cue by lowering his head.

3. Use round-pen training

Here is an important horse training tip-one of the best ways to establish leadership is to use the round pen. This is best done "at liberty" without the lead line or halter on the horse, so you control his movements without using tools-just body language and presence of leadership. Few techniques work as well to get a horse to trust and respect you. This is often called "hook-on" in the roundpen or as Monty Roberts calls it, "join up".

4. Keep him paying attention

Another important tool to use when training is to keep your horse paying attention. If he is looking off in the distance when you're working with him, bump the rope to bring his nose toward you so that both eyes are focused on you. Look at the ears. Is one ear acting like a radar dish probing the distance to check for threats? Or are both ears forward on you? If they aren't on you your horse isn't devoting his full attention and this needs to be corrected.

5. Don't just ride off into the sunset

While riding, take the time to run through exercises that keep your horse listening to you, such as flexing and having him move the hindquarter and front. By keeping him listening to you, he is less likely to look off in the distance checking for the newest threat.

By applying these horse training tips, you can start to build a sold foundation with your horse that is gentle, yet teaches respect and leadership. A horse that respects you and sees you as a leader is far less likely to engage in bad behaviors.

For more information, please visit Gentle Horse Training.

Remove Hoof black

To remove Hoof Black or Hair Dye from white socks, just spray the mark with HAIR SPRAY and it will wipe off. This will also work if you are dying you horses mane and tail.

5 Tips to Winning Patterns in the Showmanship Class

Tip 1: Look Good

Having a clean and put together appearance when you enter the show ring is something many competitors overlook. Remember, when you are standing at the gate or the first cone waiting to start your pattern the judge gets a first impression based on your appearance! If you have a flawless pattern but your outfit is wrinkled, your hair is hanging in your face and your hat is crunched you probably won't win the class unless you were miles ahead of the competition.

You don't have to be dressed fancy, just neat and clean. Have your hat cleaned and shaped regularly, make sure your clothes are not just clean but free of distracting wrinkles and have boots that match the color of your pants. Also, your hair should be pulled neatly out of your face and makeup should be professional looking and not overdone!

This goes for your horse as well. He should be as clean as possible with face and legs trimmed properly and mane and tail combed (even better: a good mane banding or braiding job will go a long way!).

Tip 2: A Good Start

Practice at home so your horse will stand square at the start cone or gate. Most of the time you will have a little longer to get your horse's feet set at the start because the previous exhibitor is running their pattern. You want to be sure that when the judges turns to you, you are ready and looking sharp!

Your horse should also walk forward readily with you when you take that first step in the pattern. Don't close your eyes and hope he does...practice this every time you walk him at home. Whether you are walking to the pasture with him or just finished riding and are cooling him out, always ask him to walk with you properly.

You never get a second chance at a first impression, so make your first steps count!

Tip 3: Use the Cones

One of the biggest problems I see with young and inexperienced exhibitors is that they don't know when to transition at a cone! Your pattern says: "Walk from cone A to cone B, Trot to cone C, stop and back 4 steps". When do you transition? For most people you should start asking your horse to transition the moment their nose reaches the cone. That way he will already be in the next gate (or stopped) by the time his shoulder gets there. That is the true transition point!

Make sure you don't ask too late! If you know it will take 4-5 steps before your horse transitions then you will want to ask a bit earlier. If your horse is so in tune that is only takes 1 step then ask a bit later.

Again, practice this at home. Even if you have to use a pop bottle as your cone, it's much better than never trying until you enter the ring!

Tip 4: Keep your distance

There is nothing a judge dislikes more than having to get out of the way of an exhibitor! If your pattern says to stop at the judge your horse's nose should be about an arm's length away by the time you have completely stopped. In this case, it is better to be a little farther away than too close.

This distance also give you enough room to move around the horse's nose if the judge walks to the left side of your horse first in his inspection.

NOTE: A small sub-point on this topic is that you should be bringing your horse to the judge. If your pattern has you walking or trotting to the judge your horse's nose should be headed straight for the judge's torso. If you look just to the left of the judge (instead of at him/her) you will line up with your horse straight!

Tip 5: Stay Sharp

In showmanship class everything is about precision. Always move with purpose and keep good posture. Although you shouldn't rush through the maneuvers, taking too much time to set up, back or pivot is considered a fault. Instead you should make sure each item is performed "sharp".

This does not mean you should nod at the judge each time you move side to side or when you exit. That looks fake!

Now Get Practicing!

Now that you have some tips to help you know what to look for, get out there are start practicing! Remember that even if you have a great showmanship horse you have to be in tune with him to make a winning showmanship pattern.

Take the time to go through each maneuver you may be required to do in your class and work on it until you can perform it with no lead rope. That is the challenge I give myself each time I work with a new horse on perfecting showmanship. If I can do it well with no lead then I know I can hit the mark in the show ring!

For more tips and info check out: www.squidoo.com/winning-patterns-for-showmanship-class1

I also list some helpful books and other sources there! I hope this was helpful

Connie Colvin

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Constance_Colvin

Western Show Clothing - What You Need to Know

What Outfit Do You Need For Showmanship & Halter?

Both showmanship and halter classes require you to show your horse in-hand. This means the two of you will be up close and personal with the judge, well depending on how well mannered your horse tends to be.

In showmanship, your horse is more of a prop and the judge focuses on you and your ability to execute a pattern. Since the judging is emphasized more on the visitor, it is a good idea to choose an outfit that may minimize actions occurring at your hands and legs. For this reason, darker shades are typically used. You will likely find lighter colors in the show ring, but keep in mind that these lighter colors tend to emphasize movement.

You also want to make sure that you present yourself in a solid clean line, so your pants should match your top to avoid cutting your overall picture in half. Two different colors would also draw more attention to one half or the other which is not good in a showmanship pattern.

In halter the judge focuses on the horse. It is 100% (for the most part) on conformation and your horse either has it or he doesn't. For this reason you will likely see more of a variety in exhibitor apparel. Some show in a showmanship outfit, while others will pair a halter jacket with a pair of black pants or even jeans.

What Outfit Do You Need For Horsemanship?

Horsemanship is the mounted version of showmanship. Again the judge focuses on you as the rider and you may have to complete a pattern. Since the focus is on your equitation during the class, you once again may want to present clean lines. It is not a requirement, only a recommendation to improve your overall picture.

You want to have the bottom half of your western show clothing blend or flow with the top half. A western pleasure blouse or jacket may cut you off at the waist causing more attention to be drawn to one half or the other. During a pattern you want to minimize your rider movements which may distract from the overall picture. If you are competing at a higher level show, smaller details like this can make a difference in placing.

For example, if you tend to have difficulty keeping your legs still while riding, a pair of light color chaps might emphasize this aspect of your riding. I recommend going for a solid color base for both bottom and top. Preferably darker colors to minimize movements. You will see riders with lighter colored chaps, I have even seen white chaps. You need to be pretty solid in your riding to pull off white chaps in horsemanship.

What Outfit Do You Need For Pleasure?

You can have a little more fun with your western show clothing in a western pleasure class. This is the class you will find the brightly colored blouses and jackets. Some riders may even blind you a little in just the right light.

In a pleasure class the judging is focused on the horse and the horse's movement at the walk, jog, and lope. You still want your all your colors to coordinate from top to bottom, but they don't necessarily need to be the same color.

You also want to make sure that the colors for your western show clothing continue to match and compliment your horse. Though this tends to be a very flashy class, there is such a thing as too much. You can overdue colors by adding it to your top, chaps, and show saddle blanket. You still need to keep in mind the overall picture.

What About Other Riding Classes?

Other riding classes include trail and western riding. These classes are both judged differently from each other and compared to the pleasure and horsemanship classes. Western riding can be thought of as similar to a western pleasure class with a lot of lead changes. In a trail class the horse is judged based on completion of a pattern through a set of obstacles.

In other western classes you are still considered in the overall presentation and completion of the patterns, however the horse is also judged too. In these classes your equitation and pleasure are both brought in to consideration, you can't have one without the other.

Showing Horses From the Judge's Perspective - The Top 7 Things I Learned

After a number of years as an exhibitor and trainer, showing nationally in halter, pleasure, trail, and other breed classes, I decided to become a judge so that the people who showed to me would be judged objectively and by the rulebook. Many times I have overheard folks at a show make assumptions about why a judge placed a class as they did. Most times their assumptions were incorrect.

1. The view from the center of the arena is not the same as the view from the in-gate or bleachers. No one can see exactly what a judge sees unless they are standing right next to them. It is frequently the case that when four judges evaluate a showmanship class, three will have cards that are pretty similar and one will deviate. The judge being show to has a totally different view of each performance than the other three who watch from the side.

2. The only time a judge should notice an exhibitor's attire or their tack is when it is wrong. You lose points when your silver halter is in better condition than your horse, and you don't earn points based on the quantity of silver on your saddle. Your tack and dress should be completely unremarkable; of correct quality, color and fit so as not to stand out as inappropriate, and not so gaudy that it takes attention away from your performance. Either extreme is wrong.

3. Judges are only human. They don't know everything and sometimes lack the confidence to make independent decisions. If this is a pattern they should lose their cards. When a judge is insecure they may give a win to a well-known trainer, not because of politics, but because they know from the trainer's reputation they wouldn't ride or lead a bad one. It's usually a safe pick to place a champion exhibitor. I've seen it happen. I hope I never did it. Yes, some judges do insert their prejudices into their placings. Avoid these judges if you can, or just consider the show a learning opportunity.

4. Judges are not to consider reputations or past performance. They are to use only what they see in the arena during that class. A halter horse that won the world two weeks ago may not be presented as well today. I may use a pleasure horse in first place in one class, only to drop them off my card in the next. It was always interesting to overhear someone on the rail react to the announcement of class placings when I didn't use a famous horse well. "Doesn't she know that horse won the Nationals last month? What kind of an idiot is she?" Yeah, I knew. This is a new competition. All scores are reset to zero when the gate closes. That horse just didn't win today. Judges learn to be critiqued just like exhibitors.

5. Judging in many classes involves a large amount of subjectivity. Personal preference influences every judge when the rulebook is silent on a matter. I always placed correct over flashy, whether in reining or working hunter. I want great legs, balance, and a powerful hind end on a halter horse; I never let their height be a deal killer for me.

6. Sometimes there just isn't a winner in the whole bunch. Judging a poor class is far more difficult than placing a good one. Who gets the win in a rail class, the horse that missed their right lead entirely or the one that tried to run off with their rider? Which futurity baby gets the big check, the big one with crooked legs and cute little head, or the one with good balance that will be a beauty once they get properly conditioned and enough groceries?

7. Horse shows are supposed to be fun. That's the point. Love your horse. Enjoy the process. If you are pleased with your horse it will show to the judge. If there is a close call to be made, I would give the nod to the horse and rider who look like the best team over the rider who looks like they are the star and their horse only a prop.

The opinion of the judge is not the final arbiter of your success at a show. If your horse did as you asked, you won the day. If judges continue to disagree with you, perhaps you need to ask your horse for something different. Never stop learning. And, when appropriate, ask the judge to share their reasons for how they placed a class.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lynn_Baber

Horse Riding Techniques and Tips

The thought of riding horses is often bewildering to people. The thought of climbing high in the saddle can be scary because horses are rather large and can seem frightening. Lots of people are nervous about horseback riding, but some are actually afraid of horses. You are not to be blamed for this. You are just acting upon information that you have gathered throughout your life.

The cornerstone to learning horse riding techniques begins while your feet are still planted on the ground, long before you contemplate sitting upon a horse. The cornerstone to horse riding is a a good base knowledge of the animals and their unique psychology.

Everyone lends human characteristics to the animals we love, and so it is with horses. We imagine that horses feel, think, and react the way that we humans do. This is the most debilitating thing a horse rider can do, and it is usually the initial big blunder made by those new to riding.

People and horses are not the same thing. Horses do not sense things in the same way as humans, nor do they reason or perceive things as humans do. You must truly understand this idea to protect yourself and the horses whether you are on the ground or in the saddle.

A horse's community is his herd. Therefore, they are inherently programmed to exist, reason, and respond like a pack animal. They will naturally react as opposed to acting because that is simply the way they are made. Have you ever watched a herd of zebras on television that were startled by a tiger or something? Horses react to things this same way.

However, this thought shouldn't keep you from learning to ride horses. Instead, it should teach you that horses aren't human and that you are going to have to come around to their way of thinking in order to really grasp horse riding techniques. Once you get this down, everything else will fall into place.

Anybody can have fun learning to ride, but if you start off with a bad basis, you will being starting off with incorrect methods and routines. It is for this reason that the majority of novice riders quit early on in their horse riding education. They experienced unpleasantries with the strong animals in which they got scared, took a fall, or even retained injuries. Don't let their bad experiences keep you from learning.

Learning not to fall off or get hurt is all part of the learning experience, and once you have some great horse riding techniques in your bag of tricks, you will find horseback riding can be one of the greatest things you've ever done.

With the correct horse riding technique you can enjoy the peace and joy of horseback riding for many years to come.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jay_Villaverde

Foal Training Tips - Horse Training From Birth

Newborn foals capture our hearts and inspire visions of the potential they represent. Whether we love dressage, hunters, jumpers, reining, team penning, trail riding, or any other equestrian sport, foals carry our dreams on their tottering legs.

Thoughts of horse training seem premature as we watch a baby wobble around his dam. Yet this time period is key in a young horse's development. He is a virtual sponge: his mind explores and absorbs all the information he can take in from the world around him even as he explores the limits-and the potential-of his body.

Any time we interact with horses we are training, for better or for worse. If we approach the first few days of our precious foal's life as the foundation for an incredible future, we can achieve amazing results.

This is not to say we will be longeing our foal by day 2! I'm recommending a simple shift in thinking that will turn casual time with your newborn into positive training experiences.

Approach every encounter with your newborn foal with the thought that EVERY action you take will enforce two vital horse training fundamentals:

Humans are safe, even fun! Initially foals' curiosity outweighs their fear. It can take only one scare to lose that precious trust. Move slowly and keep your body language non-threatening. Find their itchy spots and scratch, scratch, scratch. If they are sensitive, find where they enjoy being rubbed. Be a source of enjoyment and fun. Smile! It makes a difference!

Humans lay boundaries that are to be respected. Think of every visit with your foal as a horse training session. Think ahead about how the foal can "win" (remember in horse training, winning means the horse figured out what you wanted.) Set situations up where you are in a position to enforce your boundaries without being rough or abrupt.

For example, many horse owners approach their foals just hoping to touch that cute soft bundle of fur before he bounds away, which teaches the foal that humans can be evaded. Instead, approach casually, in stages. Go up to the mare and scratch her favorite spots. Turn to the foal only after his curiosity is greater than his fear. Give it as long as it takes, eventually he'll come to investigate you. If his body language tells you he's thinking of bolting, turn away before he does. If he starts to get pushy, gently back him a few steps to enforce your leadership. Humans are fun, boundaries are enforced.

Training is a lifelong journey for horse and human alike. Learning comes faster and lasts longer when you build on success rather than punish failure. Create horse training success right from the start!

Feeding after foaling

Most owners who breed from their working mares are aware of the nutritional requirements of pregnancy and will take care to provide for their mare through that time. But what are her requirements after foaling? And what will she need so she can return to work fit and healthy?

Before a foal is born, it relies on the mare for all his growth and development needs. After birth, and until it is about six weeks old, the foal still relies on her - only now it is growing faster and burning more energy.

Dietary requirements

The efficiency of nutrient transfer through milk is not as good as it is through the blood (the nutritional source for the foal in utero), so the lactating mare needs to take in more to provide the same amounts - in fact, her requirements increase by 75%.

At peak lactation rate (six to eight weeks after foaling), an average-sized mare (500-550kg) will produce up to 20 litres of milk daily. The dietary areas to consider are energy, protein, calcium, vitamins and minerals.

Energy and protein

The mare needs to be fed at a sufficient level to keep her in good, but not fat, condition. Studies show that obesity in mares can have a negative effect on growth rates in the youngster. However, inadequate nutrition is detrimental to both mare and foal.

If the mare is not receiving enough, she will first use her own body reserves to maintain milk production. If low-energy intake continues, milk production will drop away and the mare will become thin and emaciated.

Weight loss is also a consideration if the mare is to return to the stallion, as fertility rates can be affected. Monitor her weight regularly and, while some weight loss is inevitable, especially in mares that milk very well, try to feed so that her weight does not change significantly.

In practice, this means feeding up to three per cent of bodyweight in a mixture of forage and concentrates - although this will vary depending on the individual mare. Digestible energy levels of approximately 2.3Mcal/kg and crude protein levels around 12% are appropriate for most lactating mares.

Calcium and phosphorous

After energy and protein, the most important nutrient is calcium, required for healthy bone and muscle growth and development. Calcium requirementsincrease post-natally to 50-60g daily for an average-sized mare. However, for efficient absorption, it is important that calcium is fed with phosphorous, at a ratio of around 1.5-2:1 (Ca:P) - supplementing with di-calcium phosphate will ensure that the correct ratio is fed.

Feeding phosphorous with calcium is particularly important for the mare at grass because pasture rarely contains sufficient levels of phosphorous for healthy lactation.

Bear in mind that adequate calcium and phosphorous levels are particularly important for the older mare because aged equine bones, like human bones, are susceptible to osteoporosis.

Vitamin intake

A broad spectrum of vitamins is necessary for general health and vitality, but vitamins A and D are particularly important for the lactating mare.

For mares foaling naturally in the spring and summer, fresh pasture and exposure to sunlight should provide the necessary levels of these vitamins. For early foaling mares (such as those seen in racing and some competition yards), supplementing the diet with cod liver oil will provide additional vitamins A and D.

Copper and other minerals

In recent years, much discussion has been given to copper and its role in cartilage formation and joint health. As we know that early joint health in the foal is an indication of joint health in the adult animal, this is an area worth investigating. Unfortunately, studies have been inconclusive and the most likely theory seems to be that supplementing the mare with additional copper has little or no effect on copper levels in her blood or milk, or on the levels passed to the foal.

It is recommended that the diet of the mare - and the foal, when creep feeds are introduced - contains sufficient, but not excessive, levels of copper. All other minerals also need to be present in the diet at standard maintenance levels for optimum growth and general health.

Your best plan is to keep it simple: commercially produced supplements are available that cover all the micro-nutrient requirements of the mare and youngster. These contain calcium, phosphorous and copper on a broad-based supplement of vitamins and minerals to ensure all requirements are met without excess levels of one nutrient being fed to the detriment of others. Remember, no single nutrient works alone and the balance is what's important, so avoid combining products that aren't designed to go together.

Supplying Water

Water is essential in any diet but of paramount importance to the lactating mare. A clean supply of water should always be available, as limited water intake can significantly reduce milk yield, or even dry it up altogether, in a couple of days.

Mane & Tail Basic Facts: The Mane

A horse's mane is the hair growing from its neck, and includes the forelock.

It is believed by some that one of the functions of the mane is to keep a horse's neck warm. It also helps protect the horse against flies.

The mane is usually much thicker than the horse's overall coat. Some breeds of horses, and some individuals within breeds, have significantly thicker manes than others. Some show horses have manes that reach almost to the ground!

It is possible for a determined owner to greatly improve any horse's mane, even one that is thin or scraggly in appearance. For tips on this, see related lenses listed below.

Mane & Tail Basic Facts: The Tail

A horse's tail is in many ways more important, and more expressive, than the tails of some other animals.

Anatomists say the tail is an extension of the horse's spinal column, and, indeed, it contains a series of vertebrae -- up to 18 or more. Horse tails also consist of muscles and their ligaments, arteries, skin and hair.

The hair of a horse's tail is interesting. It is made of keratin, and is closer in substance to our fingernails (or to its own hooves) than it is to the hair on our head. A strand of horse tail hair contains three distinct layers; the middle layer governs whether the hair curls or is straight -- this, in turn, is mainly dictated by the breed of horse.

Like that of the mane, a horse's tail is capable of being greatly enhanced in appearance by its owner.

Mane and Tail Enhancement

The length and fullness of a horse's mane and tail are determined by genetics to a great extent. Many horses, though, have a genetic potential that is not being fully expressed. A knowledgeable owner who can bring out this potential in a horse can astound people (including competition judges!) with the magnificence that was inside the animal, just waiting to be discovered.

Careful grooming and general good care are the first steps toward enhancing a horse's mane and tail.

Once you are satisfied that you are keeping your horse in tip-top condition, health-wise, and providing proper care of its mane and tail (as well as the rest of its coat, of course) you can look into adding special nutrients to its diet and topical solutions designed to aid in hair growth.

Mane and Tail Problems

Sometimes, despite our efforts, a horse's mane and tail become quite damaged looking. There may be thin patches, bald spots and areas of distinctly uneven growth. Such damage can be caused by the horse itself.

Horses will wear down or tear out their hair, including in their mane and tail, by scratching against things. A common but often overlooked reason is ticks, mites, or fungus on the skin. Worms and other internal parasites can also cause the skin to itch and the horse to scratch to try to relieve the itching. If you find stray horse hairs on objects such as trees or fences, that's a sign that your horse is scratching itself.

When your horse's mane and tail simply won't grow out like you think it should, check for scratching and the parasites that cause it. Ask your veterinarian to help diagnosis this and to provide the appropriate remedy.

Your Horse's Mane Is Worth Your Time

I spend a lot of time working on beautifying my horse's mane. Why? There are many reasons, but topping the list for me is the fact that a gorgeous mane is an indisputable show stopper in the competition ring.

There are many ways to improve the appearance of a horse's mane. What many people don't realize is that it is possible to enhance a mane to such a degree that you can, in effect, achieve an entirely new horse, appearance-wise at least.

Horse's Mane: Beauty Begins Inside

Aside from basic grooming, a horse's mane benefits from being attached to a healthy horse. While this might seem obvious, it's something that many people overlook when attempting to diagnose why their horse's mane is thin, brittle or simply ratty looking.

Make sure your horse eats a balanced diet and has as much food and water as it needs to thrive and be the picture of good equine health. Let your horse graze as much as possible. Provide it plenty of good quality hay as well. Salt licks and sweet feed will also help your horse's all-around condition.

A horse's mane is a good barometer of the animal's health. A poor-looking mane, especially when combined with a dull or uneven coat, is a sign of possible inadequate nutrition.

Nurtients for A Horse's Mane

In theory, a properly fed and cared-for horse should not need nutritional supplements. In practice, many horses suffer from poor coats and falling hair despite the best of care.

Here are a some nutrients and herbs that can help with a horse's hair deficiencies. These can help your horse's mane to look both thicker and healthier.

These are also safe to use in combination if you really want to mount a concerted effort to enhance the looks of your horse and its mane.

Flax seed - Promotes healthy hair growth.

Biotin - More horse owners should know about this super nutrient. An important vitamin required for both the production and growth of all cells in the body, it is particularly vital for healthy hair.

Cider vinegar - Anothr great supplement. Cider vinegar promotes general health and also combats internal parasites and other organisms that can cause disease.

Garlic - Reduces itching and also strengthens the immune system.

Echinacea - An herb, it is particularly effective in fighting a horse's itching.

Washing & Combing A Horse's Mane

It's good to wash your horse's mane at least twice a month, and perhaps a bit more often in the summer. Besides cleaning away dirt and incidental trash such as leaves, washing with a good horse shampoo will reduce the likelihood of skin infections. Following shampooing and rinsing, apply a conditioner to the mane.

Between shampooings, you can rinse your horse's mane with clear water. Don't be afraid to rinse every other day if you wish or if you think the mane needs it.

Of course, you'll want to shampoo and condition your horse prior to any shows.

As for brushing the mane, less if often more. Even the most careful brushing can pull out hairs; too much brushing will leave the horse's mane thin and straggly looking. The same goes for the tail.

When you do brush, use an implement made especially for horses. Some "people brushes" will do a decent job, but it's better to start with one that is made for the special needs of horses. You can use a spray-on conditioner when you comb to minimize hair tearing and to make your job easier.

If you start now and take the right measures, you can improve your horse's locks.

Growing luxuriant horse manes (and tails) requires combing, washing and conditioning so as to stop hair breakage and add a layer of protection to the strands; feeding the horse properly to strengthen its skin and hair; and providing growth nutrients, either orally or directly to the hair.

Dog Owner's Tips

1. Expect your dog to act like a dog. Don't take it personally when he exhibits typical canine behaviour; he's not being 'bad', he's just being A DOG.

2. No more free lunch. Dogs are happiest when they're exercising their predator skills. Make them work for their food, like stuffing inside chew toys, hiding it around the house, & teaching them tricks for food rewards for brain stimulation. This doesn't need to be every meal, but as often as you can will help your dog stay stimulated.

3. Start off 'tight' & slack off later, rather than letting your dog run wild for the first few weeks & then clamping down when the behaviour isn't so cute anymore - it's NOT FAIR ON THE DOG. Be consistent!

4. Don't wait for him to develop bad habits, like chewing the furniture or urinating on the carpet, before you intervene. Assume this behaviour is likely to happen, & act preemptively to manage it before it develops. For example, your puppy will need to go to the toilet soon after eating.

5. Supply your dog with acceptable outlets for his doggy behaviour, rather than punishing it. Use diversion techniques.

6. Don't lay guilt trips on your dog. Dogs are neither moral nor immoral; they're amoral, meaning that they respond to what they understand to be the consequences of their behaviour. So manipulate the consequences!

7. Get involved in organised dog sports or informal activities, such as agility, obedience training, Flyball racing, tug-of-war, fetch, or a fun game of hide-&-seek.

8. Provide a wide variety of social interactions every day. What's the worst punishment a person can get in prison? Solitary confinement. Dogs are social animals too.

9. If you have a puppy, handle him endlessly. Make it as pleasant an experience as possible, so he'll associate being handled with good feelings. This is particularly important if it is a dog that will need to be groomed alot or clipped, especially the feet. Dogs are naturally paranoid about their feet, so if you can teach them that it is safe & pleasant having you touch their feet, a trip to the groomer will be alot less stressful.

10. Enrol in a good training course concentrating on behaviour & positive training.